Hue was the former capital of Vietnam until 1945 when the last Nguyen emperor abdicated. Hue cuisine is therefore often associated with the cooking style of the former royal court. Another form of Hue cooking is traditional style. Vietnamese people regard Hue cuisine as one of the best in the country. The most famous Hue dish which has yet to be delineated into one of these two culinary forms and is greatly admired for its balance of spicy, salty, and umami flavors. That is admittedly Bun bo hue.
What is “Bun Bo Hue”?
Bun bo is a popular Vietnamese soup dish containing rice noodle (bun) and beef (bo). Outside the city of Hue and some parts of central Vietnam, it is called bun bo Hue to denote its origin. Within Hue and surrounding cities, it is known simply as bun bo.
The most important element to making a delicious bowl of bun bo is inarguably the soup. The broth is prepared by simmering beef bones and beef shank with lemongrass. It is then seasoned with chilli, sugar and fermented shrimp sauce. Hue people usually add thin slices of beef shank, chunks of boiled oxtail, and pig’s knuckles or pork into the bowl. It contains cubes of brown congealed pig blood, which are very good for anyone suffering from high blood pressure. The specialty is commonly served with a plenty of herbs like sprouts, lime wedges, cilantro sprigs, onions, and sliced banana blossom. Just seeing the bowl of bun soused in the piping hot soup will make diners salivate.
However, only few know that Bun Bo Hue used to be a dish consumed during the cold winter months in Hue when the rainy season can last up to 4 months. Gradually, in order to meet the needs of locals, Bun Bo Hue started to be sold all 4 seasons. The old ladies hawking their bun bo Hue on the streets became a familiar sight.
The old tales
The origin of this famous dish probably started in the 16th century when Vietnamese people explored the Central region. Many Vietnamese from the North left their homeland to set up their careers in Central Vietnam. At that time, in a certain village, there was a young lady who made rice noodle (bun) to sell. However, some villagers criticized her for using rice to make noodles because rice was a precious and scarce commodity at that time, as there a long-lasting drought and food supply was being depleted. They put the blame on the noodle lady and forced to leave the village.
She left the village with the help of 5 villagers carrying a stone mortar which she used to make her noodles. They kept going until fatigue took over and no one could lift the mortar anymore. She decided to stop there and set up her business once more. This is the present Van Cu village, now known as the cradle of Hue rice noodles.
“one of the greatest soups in the world”
Till this day no one can say for sure what the origin of Bun Bo Hue is: is it a royal dish or traditional food. We know for sure thought that the dish is not only delicious but also memorable. Anthony Bourdain once introduced this dish on an episode of his “Parts Unknown” series and he also called Bun Bo Hue “one of the greatest soups in the world”. Enjoy bun bo Hue at least once, when you are in Hue to truly experience the peaceful and dreamy Hue.
(Justin Ngoc Pham)
