In a logogram, the drawing of a bird or a flower, in a simple geometric pattern …. beyond the sole aesthetic value, there is a symbol, a personality feature, a wish, a story, a custom, … all those patterns have a secular use in Japan, and are traditional on garments, but also ceramics, lacquer, linens, … and even in garden, when drawn in gravels or sand.
The idea there is not to make an educational glossary, but simply to let you know quickly what those patterns mean. This article is followed by 3 others about:
THE JAPANESE GEOMETRIC PATTERNS
Stars / Diamonds ✶: Asanoha
Literally, Asanoha (麻の葉) means “hemp leaves”. This star or hexagon motif evokes this hardy plant, which grows straight and fast. And so it symbolizes a good growth, vigor and resistance. And by extension, it augurs prosperity. Hemp also has a repellent effect on insects, making it a sanitizing agent. As a result, it is often used on babies’ and children’s clothing as an omen of healthy growth.
The motif was found on the clothing of Buddhist statues in the 13th and 14th centuries. It became popular in the Edo era (1603 / 1867), where it can be seen on prints, especially on women’s kimonos.
In Japan, hemp has been used for thousands of years to make tools and clothing.
Waves ◠◠: Seigaiha
This pattern represents stylized waves, with concentric arches.
In Japanese, Seigaiha is written with 3 logograms: 青海波, respectively blue, ocean and waves.
This pattern evokes the calm, the quietness of the sea. And then peace. More indirectly, wealth or resilience.
It’s also the title of a piece of Gagaku, one of Japan’s classical music styles; its dance is considered one of the most graceful, and the dancers’ clothing includes (among other things) this motif.
Arrow fletchings: Yagasuri / Yabane
Related to archery (Kyudo), and therefore used on men’s clothing, this arrow feather motif has gradually become more feminine. While its meanings are manifold, it is a symbol of good luck.
Originally, the Yabane / Yagasuri motif evoked the straight, unchanging, unreturnable character of the arrow, once shot; thus a form of determination … or a wish for happiness, e.g. for the young girl getting married. In Buddhism, the arrow and bow represent the fight against evil. In Shinto temples, at New Year’s Eve, “hamaya”, decorative demon-killing arrows, are sold as good luck charms. Yabane is spelled 矢羽, which literally means “wing” and “arrow”.
The pattern’s other name is Yagasuri, spelled 矢絣. Literally, arrow and “splashed pattern”. It comes from the dyeing trade. This pattern was also a variant of stripes, which were also obtained by weaving yarns of different color.
In a way, it all came together as one.
The Same Komon pattern, in concentric dotted circles, is said to evoke shark skin. It has no particular symbolism. Initially used by the Samurai, it became more popular during the Edo period (17th to 19th centuries), and is often used as a background on kimonos.
This pattern is written: 鮫小紋, meaning shark and Komon, meaning small pattern or seal. It was obtained by stencil dyeing, from hand-punched paper (Ise katagami). Up to 900 holes can be found in a 3cm (ca 1.2″) square. It’s the finesse of this work that determines its price.
It’s a motif that finds all its expressive power when used on a type of silk crepe (Chirimen). It then adds a particularly refined shimmering effect to the movements.
The vertical waves: Tatewaku
These vertical waves evoke mist and steam, going up to sky, namely in spring. And by this way, the capacity to rise above (eg. above the events of life).
This is a very old pattern (middle-age), which was a technical feat at that time.
This pattern is written with 2 logograms: 立涌, which mean arise and boil up.
It is often associated with an other pattern (clouds, chrysanthemums, honeysuckle, …).
The hexagons: Kikko / Kikku
In Japan, the hexagonal Kikko motif evokes the shell of a turtle, and is therefore associated with longevity. As an illustration, samurai armor, for example, was sometimes made by sewing or joining small hexagons in leather or metal. Beyond that, the hexagon gives very stable shapes, found in beehives, then in what is known as honeycomb structure… used in anti-seismic construction. So this pattern also has an aura of strength and solidity.
It is spelled 亀甲, which literally means tortoiseshell.
It’s also a very old motif (Middle Ages).
There are several variations. The one on the left (bishamon kikkou) represents sets of 3 linked hexagons, in the shape of a Y.
It can also be combined with other shapes, such as circles and rhombuses.
Its simplicity, geometric aesthetics and symbolism mean that it is often found in familial crests.
The superposed circles: Shippo
Those superposed circles represent the 7 treasures of Buddhism: gold, silver, lapis lazuli, agate, pearl, coral and cristal. They are very used in many Japanese craftsmanships (namely cloisonné): lacquer, wood, metal, etc.
This pattern has been found on clothes from the 8ith century (Shōsō-in of Tōdai-ji / Nara). Later, on women’s kimonos.
Shippo (七宝) has 2 meanings: lit. 7 treasures, but also “cloisonné”, a technique to make jewels in metal decorated with gemstones.
The Fawn spots: Kanoko
The kanoko pattern looks a bit like losanges with a central hole. They come from the dye craft.
Japan has huge dyeing tradition, namely with indigo, since the middle-age, and developed or upgraded many techniques.
Among those is tie dye (shibori), certain parts of the fabric are tied, before being dipped in the dye bath. According to tightening, these parts will be more or less colored, or remain white or so, generating patterns. Namely kanoko, commonly used.
This pattern has no specific meaning. Though, its name (鹿の子) literally means deer child, ie the fawn. In reference to the shape of the spots on its back.
The Arabesques: Karakusa
Literally, arabesques (karakusa / 唐草) mean “chinese plants”. It’s a very old pattern of stylized plants, believed to come from Egypt,
It is very used in Japan, for a very long time, in association with the Japanese flora (prunus, lotus, peony, bamboo, etc.), and grapevine.
Historically purely decorative, it progressively meant prosperity, longevity, the continuity of the family (re. tree of life). Indeed, those arabesques grow in all directions, without end. Somehow like grapevine.
It is very used in Japanese crafts.
Often used in craftmanship, it is also for fabrics, for clothing and also home textiles.
The Diagonal crosses 卍: Sayagata
This cross: 卍 is an old universal pattern (prehistory), which can be found on many continents. In Japan, it is called Manji, and is linked with Buddhism. And it can evoke tje harmony of the contraries, compassion, strenght, intelligence, the whole and infinity.
The word Sayagata (紗綾形) names silk gauzes with a diagonally weaved pattern, which were imported from China (at the end of middle-age). Often used on plain colored fabrics. Progressively, it became more popular, and can also be found on home textile, associated with flowers or plants.
This pattern is positively auspicious
Rhombs: Hishi
Hishi (菱) means water caltrop, an aquatic plant which seeds can be eaten, during prehistory, in Asia but also in Europe. Its leaves have this rhombus shape.
It is very productive, and thus also evokes prosperity.
Hash # / Grids: Igeta
The hash pattern is simple, even basic in weaving.
Igeta is written with 2 ideograms: the fist one means water well, and the second means beam, what designs a wellhead made of 4 crossing beams. Now, this relates to any grid pattern, including hash: #.
Triangles △ : Uroko
Indeed, uroko (鱗) means scale (from snake, fish, …). It can also be represented as triangles.
This is a protective pattern.
Lattice: Kagome
In Japan, this lattice-like pattern is a protective pattern, like a fence against devils and misfortune.
It comes from basketery, since it’s a technique to weave baskets.
It is written: 籠目. The first one, Kago, means basket, and the second: me, means eye, evoking the spaces between the meshes.
Circle bows: Shiba
The Shiba Kusa (芝草) pattern of horizontal arcs is evocative of Japanese grass in its wild state, creating ripples on the ground.
Circles and Points : Tsuyu Shiba
The Tsuyu Shiba (露芝) motif of arcs of circles and dots represents dew on grass. It will disappear with the morning sun, symbolizing the ephemeral.
This motif dates back to the Heian era, when it was called dew on wayside grass (道芝の露 – Michishiba no Tsuyu).
Swirling Waters: Kanzemizu
Lit. the water from Kanze, the greatest Nô theater school.Man says that the Kanze family was having wells with swirling water. What inspired this pattern to evoke running water. Its caracteristics are curves and spirals.
The 3 bays : Suhama
Lit. meaning the provincial sea shore, this pattern: Suhama-gata, can evoke a bay, sandbank, seashore, or an island, from the sky. Originally used in gardens, and then in pottery, namely for the tea (chawan). It’s also a pastry. On fabrics, it is mainly used to create zones.
Mesh: Amime
Logically, the mesh of the net represents a lucky charm for a fruitful fishing. Beyond, thanks to the shape and rythm of the mesh brought by the artisan, this pattern may have an incredible esthetic value.
Its origin is Chinese, where fish and fortune are namesakes. And a fish spawns many eggs.
It is mainly used in ceramics, for table linen, and kimonos.
Zigzags: Yamaji
For the anecdote, the zigzag pattern is traditionally called Yamaji, which literally means “mountains road”. And like for us, you will mainly see it onon seams, to delimit given areas. If it is visible, the purpose is often to add rythm, or to improve the coherence of the whole with the other patterns.
Chains of Losanges: Kuginuki Tsunagi
This pattern is now rarely used, but culturally interesting. Those losanges evoke the holes lefts by que laissaient les lod nails, when withdrawn. And this “chain” of holes is like the track that were leaving those who had to climb on a building, in order to do there something … chimney sweeps, carpenters, thatchers, etc.
Litt., la signification est quelque chose comme “les clous enlevés reliés”
Diagonal Fence: Higaki or Ajiro
A very classic motif, used in basketry, marquetry, etc. In clothing, it’s mainly used for obis, or to add relief to white fabrics.
It has 2 names in Japan: Higaki and Ajiro. Higaki means “cypress fence”, made by interweaving thin strips of this wood. Ajiro means “instead of a net”; it comes from a fishing technique, where a sort of V-shaped barrier is made in a river, forcing the fish to go to the bottom of the V, to be captured there, or led into a basin attached to the bank. This technique is still used today, even if the basins are no longer made of wood.
Meandering Bolt: Raïmon
A pattern which is often seen of the borders of ramen bowls (ramen is a soup with noodles in Japan). This way to feature a lightning bolt is very old, and has a Chinese origin where it symbolizes the wonders / marvels of the natural world, and is thus a lucky charm.
Beyond Nô theater -and bowls-, it is mainly used as a background on fabrics.
The Dots: Mameshibori
Mame-Shibori is a dot pattern, but its name is interesting since it literally means “compressed bean”. By the way, for French, dots are peas. Further, shibori is a tie-dye technique, when man compress certain parts of the fabric … more or less …. before diving them in the dying bath. According to compression level, these parts will stay white, or will be more or less colored.
Pine Bark: Matsukawabishi
Matsukawabishi (松皮菱) literally means something like “losange from pine bark”, the latter being effectively made of a kid of scales, which have this shape.
This pattern is very old (Heian period), and rathr often used, namely on fabrics, and in many different ways (from tiny to hyuge, woven / embroided / sewn / dyed, …). It can be a unique shape, or a grid made with this specific pattern. Used as is, or to contain other patterns.
The meaning of this pattern is the one of pine, i.e. longevity.
Linked Weights: Fundo-Tsunagi
This geometric pattern is based on the shape of the weights which were used in the past in Japan, to weight something on a scale.
This curvy shape, like hourglass somehow, is highly value in Japan, and can be often met (roof, word, plate, …).
Since precious metals were also cast in strands with this shape, this pattern is considered as auspicious for finance.
The Spiral: Uzumaki
The geometric Uzumaki spiral motif (渦巻 , lit. whirlpool scroll) is centuries old. In Japan, and probably all over the world. It can be found on pottery dating back to antiquity.
It’s associated with water, but has no specific or consensual meaning. On the other hand, it is a very classic motif in Japanese dyeing and weaving.
It was also worn by Kabuki actor Ichimura Kamezo I (Edo period).
Ceremonial Lines : Gyogi
The geometric Gyogi pattern (行儀 / manners, etiquette) represents diagonal, intersecting alignments of dots. It’s one of the 3 great prestigious motifs of the Edo period.
It is traditionally obtained by stencil dyeing, by punching small holes in washi paper before applying the dye (katagami technique). And it’s the finesse of this work that defines the quality of the motif.
Finally, it’s because the stitches are aligned with regularity, precision and determination that it evokes Japanese courtesy and good manners.
Check / Gingham : Ichimatsu-moyō
The geometric checkerboard pattern is also very old in Japan, since it can be found on statuettes dating back to antiquity.
During the Heian period, it was called Ishidatami: 石畳, which literally means stone carpet (tatami), i.e. paved road.
It changed its name in the Edo era, to Ichimatsu, the name of a Kabuki actor who wore this blue-and-white pattern in a play, which was very popular, and can thus be found in prints by great artists of the period.
This navy/white variant of the checkerboard was used in the logo for the Tokyo Olympic Games.
Alternating Stripes : Sangokuzushi
The geometric pattern of alternating vertical and horizontal stripes, with an overall checkerboard layout is called Sangokuzushi (算木崩し), and refers to a Chinese calculation technique, dating back to antiquity, and which preceded the abacus.
算木, or calculate and wood, refers to small wooden planks or sticks, and whose arrangement – horizontally or vertically – gives a number.
It’s a very simple tool, and a very powerful one, since it even allows you to extract square roots, work with negative numbers, solve certain equations, …
The other part of the word (崩し) evokes an idea of collapse / bursting, which is used globally in 2 contexts like:
- to exchange one large bill for several small ones or coins
- the action of unbalancing the opponent, in martial arts.
The classic layout is 3 / 3. After that, of course, all variations are possible, including diagonal. For a 4 / 4 pattern, we’d say “burst 4”.
Intertwined squares : Kaku-Tsunagi
The Japanese Kakutsunagi motif, representing intertwined squares, is a variant of the endless knot, one of the 8 auspicious symbols of Tibetan Buddhism, evoking life, death, continuity, transformation, harmony, ….
Kakutsunagi is spelled 角繋ぎ, which simply means connected corners.
It’s a shape that’s often found in rope and braid crafts (Kumihimo in Japan), such as obijime, the cord used to hold a woman’s obi around the waist.
GRAPHIC & COMBINED
PATTERNS
Chinese Flower: Karahana-mon
As its name says, Karahana is a pattern from Chinese inspiration, composed of intertwined flowers and plants, real or fantasy / ficticious. Generally with a circular or losange shape.
More than a patter, it’s a style, with different variants: tsuruhana (vine + flower), tsurukusa (vine + herbs), …
It is still used, in fabrics for kimono and obi, and mainly in craft, generally speaking.
Petit Indigo: Ko-Aoi
An old symbol, intended for nobility, and inspired by the flower of indigo plant.
Still used
MY CRAFT
To finish, here are a few examples of what I do with Japanese geometric patterns and propose here for sale
